Looking across the river upstream from Betty's boat
| 1. Intro |
2. Zalor Beach |
3. Carnival |
4. Cola Beach |
5. Betty's Boat |
6. Market |
7. Spice Gardens |
8. Elephant |
9. VillageLife |
10. Cashew Nut Factory |
11. Waterfall |
12. Margaret's Home Page |
| Our boat looked as if it had originally been used as a prop in a production of Peter Pan. It was moored at Betty's place on the estuary of the River Sal. The further bank of the estuary was lined with working boats,ranging in size from diesel driven tugs to tiny wooden dug-outs. Nearly all belonged to local fishermen. The estuary provides a living to hundreds of Goans, not only to fishermen using nets but also to people wading in to dig for shell fish. I have heard since all their livelihoods are threatened by a government initiative to dredge the estuary to help Five-star Hotel Leela anchor their 13-metre-long casino boat off Mobor, the spit of sand that divides the estuary from the sea. The hotel property is built on this spit. |
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On boarding the boat I bagged a place on an empty table close to the rail. As soon as we set sail the crew handed all passengers a pair of binoculars and a well thumbed illustrated book on Indian birds. |
| We started by going to sea to watch dolphins. Unfortunately the dolphins were taking it easy that day and only showing fins and tails. |  |
 | We left the sea after about half an hour and re-entered the estuary, passing the magnificent gardens of the international hotels. The crew dished out glasses and poured drinks. Since the only alchoholic drinks being served were beer, whisky gin and an indigenous rotgut reminiscent of an old Norman farmers 10 day old Calvados, I stuck to mango juice. Throughout the trip, one crew member kept himself occupied by refilling pasengers' glasses every time the level appeared dangerously low. Despite this no one appeared to get excessively drunk. |
| The journey up river was a twitcher's fantasy come true. but I was more impressed by the scenery and especially by waterside villagers who used coracles instead of dug-outs when fishing. |  |
 | About noon two crew members ran from the galley down to the prow, each holding a four foot long king fish. This was to be the main ingredient of our lunch. |
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Anchors were weighed, a grill was lit outside the galley and before long the crew distributed four large tiger prawns to each passenger as a starter, The main course consisted of the biggest, thickest fish steak I have ever eaten, garnished with tossed salad. When it came to desert, everyone else was served with fruit salad soaked in brandy, but the crew had noticed me refraining from alcohol and made me a special fruit salad with no brandy. I forced a gracious smile and thanked them very much. |  |
| As I left the boat I had to agree with the person who had recommended it that at just over £10 all inclusive, it was the best value for money trip ever. |
| 1. Intro |
2. Zalor Beach |
3. Carnival |
4. Cola Beach |
5. Betty's Boat |
6. Market |
7. Spice Gardens |
8. Elephant |
9. Village Life |
10. Cashew Nut Factory |
11. Waterfall |
12. Margaret's Home Page |